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What Ingredients in Cosmetics Cause Acne

by Lisel Torgerson

Before buying any cosmetic product, it is important to understand the meaning of the word comedogenic. Its definition is "tending to produce or aggravate acne". Therefore, a comedogenic ingredient or product is one that will exacerbate acne problems.

For this reason, it is a good idea to read the label of your skin care and cosmetic products before buying them. If you find any comedogenic ingredients, stay away from that product. If you have already purchased a product containing these types of ingredients, throw it out.

Acne Formation

Our skin's sebum is complex, composed of 6 or 7 main ingredients, including triglycerides and squalene, a precursor of cholesterol. The triglycerides are broken down on the surface of the skin by microbes to free fatty acids, which cause acne episodes in genetically predisposed families. As we will see, many cosmetics also include these acids. Unfortunately, some cosmetics include esters of fatty acids like isopropyl mystrate or butyl stearate which are more likely to boost the generation of some acne lesions. These cosmetics can interfere with traditional adult acne treatments.

Before we talk about cosmetic ingredients, we should consider the purpose of sebum. We could assume that sebum is vital to our skin's health. However, there is no evidence to that effect. Apparently, the discharge of sebum is just a vestige whose function has been lost in the process of evolution.

Sebum doesn't prevent wrinkles either. Wrinkling, or aging of the skin, is a consequence of accumulated sun damage, and no moisturizer on the market is capable of reversing this exhaustion of tissues.

Harmful Ingredients in Acne Treatments

Three main groups of offending ingredients

Lanolins Among cosmetics ingredients, the most commonly used is lanolin. Lanolin is basically sheep skin oil extracted from wool. The fatty acids in lanolin, just like fatty acids in our own oil, tend to accentuate some acne in the skin of individuals with genetic tendency towards acne. Many lanolin by-products currently being used in cosmetics are damaging to acne-prone individuals, i.e., etoxylated lanolins and acetylated lanolins. The partially chemical lanolins are capable of permeating skin pores even better than biological lanolin. Lanolin oil, itself, is acceptable.

Isopropyl Myristate and its Chemical Cousins

One of the worst components is a penetrating oil called isopropyl myristate. It is the main ingredient in penetrating rust remover called Liquid Wrench. Isopropyl Myristate helps cosmetics go on more softly and have a slicker feel. This particular penetrating oil is so invading that if left over night in a beaker, it will actually move over the top, down the borders and onto the table top. There are several chemicals analogous to isopropyl myristate in cosmetics. The most common are: myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, putty sterate, isostearyl neopentonate, octyl sterate, decyl oleate, octyl palmitate, isopropyl isothermal and isocetyl stearate and PPG myristyl propionate. All must be avoided, as must other surfactants such as laureth-4.

Drugs As Acne Treatments

Perhaps one the most troublesome recent discoveries about acne-causing potential is the red tints used in blushes. Some of the red dyes used in drugs and cosmetics are comedogenic. This discovery is not unexpected considering they are coal tar by-products. Ever since doctors realized that acne was an occupational illness of chimney sweeps, coal tar has been known for its acne-causing properties. An acceptable substitute for red color is carmine, a dye extracted from insect wings and discovered by the Aztecs.

Always be on the look out for these comedogenic components. To keep your skin healthy, remember to read product labels. This simple tip can mean the difference between beautiful and damaged skin.

A new alternative to surgical acne scar treatment offers the opportunity of easily eliminate acne scars and skin lesions.

Published December 24th, 2007

Filed in Beauty, Health, Women